- Location: Castle Wynd, Stirling FK8 1EJ
- Opening times: 1 April to 30 September 9.30am – 6.00pm, 1 October – 23 December, 27 – 31 December, 2 January – 31 March 9.30am – 5.00pm, 24 December 9.30am – 4.00pm, and 1 January 11.00am – 4.00pm.
- Entry: Adult £19.50, senior £15.60, child (7 – 15) £11.70, family from £38.50
- Access: Onsite parking, £4.00 charge.
“Who does not know its noble rock, rising, the monarch of the landscape…”.
So wrote one James Johnson in 1834, ‘the monarch of the landscape’ a perfect description of Castle Hill, and by extension Stirling Castle itself, which sits atop that ‘noble rock’. Thirteen years later, Hans Christian Anderson described it thus: “Stirling’s mighty castle, situated on a rock which appeared like a gigantic figure of stone, thrown out from the level plain, crowned the town…”. In my introduction to my Wallace Monument entry, I wrote about the thrill of seeing Stirling Castle come into view while driving along the M9/A9. Although Johnson and Anderson would never know what an ‘M9’ was, it sounds like they too experienced that same thrill.
Stirling Castle has long been one of the most strategic sites in Scottish history, as Stirling was the sole location where bridges spanned the River Forth, thereby linking the north and south of the country, until the Forth Rail Bridge opened in 1890. It is assumed there has been a fortification on Castle Hill since the first millennium, and Hector Boece’s 16th century History of the Scottish People has Kenneth MacAlpin, traditionally the first Scottish king, besieging the Picts there in the ninth century. The first actual record of a Stirling Castle appears circa 1110, when Alexander I dedicates a chapel there. Fourteen years later, Alexander’s successor David I made Stirling his base of power.
The castle truly came to prominence during the Independence Wars, when between 1291 and 1342 it ping ponged between Scottish and English custodianship. Famously, it was besieged by Edward Bruce, brother of Robert the Bruce, in 1313, leading the castle’s English governor Sir Philip Mowbray to vow that he would surrender the castle if not relieved by English forces within the year. Edward’s acceptance of Mowbray’s proposal was the catalyst that led to the Battle of Bannockburn exactly one year later. Thanks to a constant state of siege and counter-siege and later rebuilding and refortification, there is nothing left of the castle that Bruce knew; almost all of what we see today stems from the reigns of James IV, V, and especially VI (1488 – 1625). James VI was christened at Stirling castle during a lavish multi-day ceremony organised by his mother Mary, Queen of Scots.
Today, the first Sunday in November, the castle is busy, busy, busy. I arrive at fifteen minutes past noon and a sign says the car park is already full. Rather than find somewhere in the town I become the third car in the queue waiting to get in, and am shown to a parking place within five minutes. Some quick research shows that Stirling Castle is always busy. In 2023 it was Scotland’s most visited paid attraction outside Edinburgh, with over half a million visitors. Kudos to the enterprising young piper in kilt and ginger hair next to the statue of Robert the Bruce for capitalising on the castle’s popularity. If everyone that takes his photograph also gives him £1 he’ll go home a wealthy man.
There is lots to see and do at Stirling Castle. The visitor is rewarded with great 360° views, taking in the Wallace Monument in the north-east and the King’s and Queen’s Knots in the south-west. There is an excellent exhibition about the history of the castle and, by default, the history of Scotland in the rooms just off the Queen Anne Garden. The Palace Vaults are full of fun activities for younger visitors. Amongst other things they can have a go at playing recreation Renaissance-era instruments in the Musician’s Room or try out outfits from days of yore in the Tailor’s Room (I couldn’t help but notice some of those involved in this activity strained the definition of ‘younger’). There are the royal apartments, reconstructed to look as they did when James V or Mary, Queen of Scots resided here. And there are the famous Stirling Heads, both originals conserved in a gallery and replicas in situ on the ceiling of the Palace Hall. I was even able to pick up something for my wife’s Christmas in one of the castle’s gift shops.
Left: The atmospheric North gate is the oldest surviving part of the castle. It was built in the late fourteenth century for Robert II, grandson of the Bruce and first of the Stewarts / Stuarts. Right: Statue of James V on the corner of the Palace, which he had built in the 1540s.
Destination or Diversion?
My time at Stirling Castle went by so easily that I was genuinely surprised to discover I had spent over three hours there, so that qualifies it as a destination. I extended my visit by taking the short walk to Stirling Old Bridge. Although not the one after which the 1297 battle is named – that was made of wood and is long gone – Stirling Old Bridge is built on or near the site of the original and is considered one of the finest mediaeval bridges in Scotland.
Those looking to combine a visit to Stirling Castle with another attraction or two are spoilt for choice, with the Wallace Monument, the Battle of Bannockburn Visitor Centre, the Kelpies, the Falkirk Wheel, and Linlithgow Palace all within thirty minutes’ drive.
Top tip: The prices above are walk-up prices. Prices when booking online in advance are discounted, e.g. at 2024 prices, an adult would pay £17.50 rather than £19.50 and a family of two adults and two children £50.50 instead of £56.00. Also note that last entry is one hour before advertised closing time.
